The village Coral Bay is a compact, thriving holiday resort. Two huge campings, restaurants, a dive shop and many booking bureau's for several kinds of adventure trips.made up the resort. Of course the dive shop had special interest. Last time diving was 2 years ago on the Great Barrier Reef on the east coast of Australia, so I need a refresher course. Unfortunately there is none so I have to go right the way deep under the sea, First we go snorkelling for the manta rays. They may grow up to 6 meters in span and fly like a plane in the sea, with big delta wings as fins To find them it's a needle in a haystack but with the help of a light spotter airplane, circling over the sea, it is very likely you see them. You slide then quietly with snorkel gear from the boat and swim to them. We saw a few and a picture from a manta at the surface show his black upperside. Under the surface the water was opaque in this area and the manta's disappeared prior a nice.picture could be made. We saw a few big Manta's but only a short time. Normally they circle curiously around people but this time they seemed scared.
Next was the dive. I was exited to dive again and to try out my new underwater camera. The dive was exiting as always, lots of coral, not in the fancy bright colours, but more in all shades of brown and grey, With beautiful formed shapes. And of course the most exotic brilliant coloured fish like pipefish. Impressive were the trevallies and many grey reef sharks. My buddy Graig made a picture of me but to my surprise the memory card of the camera was full. I did not understand it, as there should be enough capacity on the card.The fins did hurt as they did not fit perfect, so after 54 minutes the fun was over and we had to surface again.The mystery with the memory card was solved, as the camera was inadvertently placed in the movie mode and just took movies. An so the card was quickly full. Of course very few things to see,except one fragment, which is nice.
In the evening we went to the tops of the dunes, to see the sunset, always good for a few nice pictures. On the land side, exactly opposite the sun, very strange rays were visible. In no way I can explain those rays. They seems to come from behind the horizon, from one point. If anyone knows this phenomenon, please let me know.
The skin on my feet was locally chafed away by the bad fitting fins. That need a few days to recover and a good opportunity to travel to Exmouth, at the north side of the Ningaloo Reef.
The Ningaloo Reef is the only barrier reef located on the west side of a continent, so very special. Interesting is that the reef at some locations starts a few meters from the coast. Unlike the Great Barrier Reef, east of Australia. There you have to travel at least 4 hours by boat to see the closest coral reefs.
Earlier we described a giant anthill which appeared very locally. On our way to Exmouth, we saw them again and we noticed a 'live' one which allowed us to see how they were built. We saw on the side of the anthill a lobe of very soft and fragile shell like 3-4 cm leaves of a sandy type structure. If you touched them they fell apart. But if it rains then the shells compact to mud and when it dries it hardens like concrete in a predetermined shape. So many generations ants or termites contribute to the building. Interesting is that the ants use the rain as a tool to finish their building activities in this arid land.
Some what further we saw an anthill which was damaged and it was good visible that the anthill from the inside has all canals and chambers.
We saw again an emu family, very alert, catching their meal.
After passing air base Learmonth, typically prepared for combat, we entered the hills of Cape Range to see some magnificent gorges ; The area was a complex of islands long ago and still many unusual plants and animals can be seen. The mountains consist of red sandstone and form impressive, vertical cliffs.
The town of Exmouth was a normal functioning town, not only a holiday resort. An air base, Learmonth and naval base close by.is a firm base for living here. But most of all is Exmouth famous for the Ningaloo reef. It should have an impressive beach, but it was tiny and only a couple and a dog there. But a quick look on the map showed that that Exmouth was on the east side of the Cape and all the magic was on the west side . So we have to go further
It is dead season now. The peak of the temperature, yesterday 40 degrees, and unlike in Europe in the summer season almost nobody here; relatively many tourists from Europe, escaping the winter there. Only 2 dive schools are presently operating and one of them has no activity as the fleet of boats get their maintenance in preparation for the season of whale sharks.
One thing is for sure, I will not dive with the whale sharks. First because they are not there now, secondly if they were there, only snorkelling is allowed, just like the manta experience. It is again fully regulated by the CALM and extremely high fees apply. Count on 350 dollar for that 'once in a lifetime experience', snorkelling with a whaleshark. Many operators are in the business, so it looks like that from all parts of the world people come to enjoy this event. But fortunately there are other great things to do as well.
The plan is to leave tomorrow for the reef, to check it out and to enjoy the magic of coral and exotic fishes,
The temperature in Exmouth is high, about 40 degrees and the swimming pool is lovely. Mariska and Birgitt often dip in the pool and both )love it. The air conditioning of the campervan works all day and keep it pleasantly cool inside. As a bonus the air conditioning produces lots of pure condensed water and that makes perfect tea.
)Next morning we saw that the caravan park was empty, all guest gone. We do some shopping and prepare ourselves for camping in the National Park, with no facilities. That means no electricity. We set of to the north point of the peninsula, to see the surf coast and the ship wreck just for the coast. The weather was rainy and cloudy, but .warm. It stayed cloudy and that is unusual this area. We pass a camping which is complete empty. Then we pass another camping, empty as well. So no hurry to claim a place. We further proceed to the Cape Range National Park. We see emu's, kangaroos and a big bird, which look like a brown stork. At home we will research what is was. Then we see a sweet animal, a porcupine with big barbs and a long conical nose. At the visitor centre we hear that something .is looming a cyclones as they calll a hurricane.here It is expected to come at the coast in 6 hours. Was this the reason for the empty caravan parks? It is too late to leave as the rain will be heavy and the roads will be flooded for a few days. If we leave now, there is a good chance we are caught, so accept what you ncannot change.and ride out the storm. Nearly 7 years ago Exmouth was flatteded by tropical cyclone Vance, which had windspeeds of 280 km/hr and, as Hurricane Katrina, was a category 5. In Exmouth, 100 homes were flattened like matchboxes. A cyclone is fed by hot seawater and occurs only if the sea water temperature is 26 degrees or more. And the seawater temperature is now higher. So here we are, waiting for the cyclone. We take some precautions, park the campervan with the nose in the wind and remove all movable objects around, like dustbins and metal sprinklers. We block the carwheels with stones and close the ventilation openenings . We make a plan where we can hide in case our campervan is wrecked. Then start the long waiting. We have to expect stormy gales and tons of rainwater. The campervan will be shaken by the storm. Hopefully we survive the storm without damage, as the campervan is not insured and damage by cyclones is own risk. In the mean time we are stuck in Exmouth, riding out the storm. It is not advised to leave as the catchment area's inland catch the enormous ammounts of rain and flood the roads locally. You might be caught there, or completely isolated between 2 flooded area's, so we prefer to stay, tie down the campervan on steel hooks, embedded in concrete and move, if required, to the cyclone shelter in town. Completed February 27, 2006
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